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The Evolution of Tennis Fashion From 1900s-2000s
Tennis fashion is functional and comfortable, but it must follow a tight set of standards in professional matches. But that doesn’t mean the uniforms haven’t altered to reflect fashion. Serena Williams and Maria Sharapova, for example, have devised their own methods to have fun with their clothes (think tennis dresses made of lace and even denim).
Tennis attire frequently inspire the crowds as well. According to Ben Rothenberg’s The Stylish Life: Tennis, American tennis star Bill Tilden captivated spectators in the 1920s with his forehand and preppy attire. Tilden’s modest white V-neck sweaters and matching slacks are still a classic men’s fashion combo today.
Technological advancements have also altered the appearance and functionality of tennis jerseys. Spandex, nylon, and other synthetic textiles designed to wick away sweat are necessary—and a far cry from what athletes wore 100 years ago. “When Victorian women played tennis in the 1880s and 1890s, they were wearing their street clothes, which included heavy undergarments like corsets, bustles, and petticoats, and voluminous skirts that grazed the ground,” Keren Ben-Horin, a fashion historian and coauthor of She’s Got Legs: A History of Hemlines and Fashion, told Allure.
With Teeanime, let’s look back at how tennis outfits have evolved over time.
1900s
Tennis became popular in Victorian England, and the clothes matched the fashion of the time: high collared gowns with long sleeves. White attire, which is readily soiled, has become a symbol of wealth, much like the sport itself. Wimbledon mandated all-white attire for its players in 1890, and “tennis whites” increasingly became the rule. Women played tennis with floor-length skirts, stockings, and long-sleeved tops in the early 1900s (all of which prevented range of mobility). Dorothea Douglass (pictured above), a British tennis player, won the Wimbledon Women’s Singles title seven times.
1920s
When French tennis star Suzanne Lenglen played Wimbledon with bare arms and a knee-length skirt, she caused quite a sensation. Jean Patou, a French designer, created her attire. On the court, Lenglen also sported flapper-style headbands. René Lacoste, a French tennis player, invented lightweight, breathable cotton shirts (today known as polo shirts) during that decade and began mass-producing them in 1933. Today, the Lacoste brand still produces tops with the trademark crocodile (“The Crocodile” was Lacoste’s nickname).
1930s
Helen Wills Moody’s courtside outfits complemented the 1930s’ loose and boxy designs. Moody favoured pleated knee-length skirts and her characteristic white visor over cumbersome long skirts.
1940s
The ultrafeminine outfit worn by American tennis player Gertrude Moran at Wimbledon in 1949 foreshadowed future 1950s fashion trends. Her top was ruffled, and she wore shorts designed by British couturier Ted Tinling with lace that peeked out as she danced. Photographers lied flat on the ground to capture images of the lace shorts.
1950s
In the 1950s, women’s tennis costumes were all about cinched waists, beautiful cardigans, and feminine pleated skirts, as shown here on American star Maureen Connolly. Following his retirement, British tennis player Fred Perry established his own apparel company in 1952.
1960s
Mod fashion took the 1960s by storm and showed up in tennis uniforms. Streamlined tunics with pops of gingham were popular, as were the graphic shorts worn by English players Virginia Wade and Lorna Greville-Collins, and Marlys Burel of France.
1970s
American tennis players John McEnroe and Vitas Gerulaitis wore terrycloth headbands, striped polo shirts, and short shorts. Fila began as a knitwear brand before expanding into sportswear with the support of Swedish tennis player Björn Borg, depicted here.
1980s
During the 1980s, uniforms became tighter and slimmer all over. In 1985, American tennis player Anne White wore a white unitard to Wimbledon. Officials apparently asked her to dress more formally the following day. American Chris Evert dropped her diamond bracelet on the court during a match at the 1987 U.S. Open, and the game was halted until it was located. That occurrence prompted the creation of the diamond “tennis bracelet.”
1990s
Andre Agassi, an American tennis player, wore denim shorts with bright cycle shorts and flashy shirts. From 1988 to 1990, Agassi declined to play Wimbledon because he did not agree with the all-white clothing code.
2000s
Maria Sharapova, a Russian tennis player, wore menswear and a lot of Swarovski crystals in the early 2000s. Sharapova donned a Nike-designed tuxedo-inspired costume at Wimbledon in 2008.
2010
Venus Williams, who has been known to wear edgy uniforms (as has her sister Serena), wore a black transparent lacy outfit that appeared to be inspired by lingerie at the 2010 French Open. Underneath, the tennis player wore a pair of nude shorts.
2016
Nike-sponsored women wore pleated shift dresses that kept blowing up and exposing the stomach at this year’s Wimbledon event (shown: Eugenie Bouchard of Canada). Players who were uncomfortable with the loose clothes were given regular skirts and tops, according to the New York Times. Brand sponsorships are one of the most powerful influences on current tennis fashion today.
2016
Serena Williams won her 22nd Grand Slam championship at the 2016 Wimbledon Championships while wearing a Nike white high-collared dress with a pleated skirt. “I wouldn’t typically comment on another woman’s physique, but could someone give Serena Williams something to cover her nipples…very distracting,” one user tweeted. Many of her fans appreciated her body and the dress, which was praised for its basic yet classic style.